The Irish Times - Saturday, December 29, 2012

Walking on water

CATHERINE MACK

I wonder what happens on January 31st on the Sheeps Head? This is the one day of the year that the Sheeps Head Way, one of Irelands most precious walking trails, is closed. Do the sheep breathe a sigh of relief, or do the farmers come out on to the land they have willingly shared for about 20 years and have a big party to celebrate their hiker-free haven.

Dont be tempted to go down and look, because this is the one day walkers have no access. And dont even think about driving around it, because this is a landscape to be enjoyed using turf to toe contact only. Take your car as far as one of the loop points if you must, but do get out and walk because otherwise you are really missing the best bits all of which are off road.

The Sheeps Head Peninsula in Co Cork is a long ridge of old red sandstone and white limestone which, apparently, has had some influence on the choice of red and white as the colours of the Cork county flag.

The Head has one of the most impressive collection of walking trails in Ireland, all tucked into one narrow peninsula and covering 150km of hillwalks which will lead you to dreamy coves, ancient archaeological sites or to its elusive lighthouse right at the tip  all strengthened by this sandstone ridge which stretches down the core of the peninsula like a central spine.

With only a couple of days to spare, I decided to top and toe the Sheeps Head, starting with the Lighthouse loop at the tip. After stopping at the Alice West Centre at Blackgate to pick up a map of the trails from the Sheeps Head Way office, I went as far as I could by car and parked beside Bernie Tobins cafe, Cupan Tae in Toreen, on the south side of the tip. I hadnt had time to pack a lunch before I hit the road, so I tucked into one of Bernies homemade vegetable soups and famous fresh salmon sandwiches, stashing my apple pie in my rucksack before hitting the road.

The only danger of starting your walking trip at Bernies is that she is such wonderful company and a legendary culinary host in this remote spot, you might never want to leave.

The south side of the Sheeps Head looks over Dunmanus Bay over to Mizen Head in the distance and even though I was distracted by the views, it was hard to get lost, with efficient way marking along these narrow paths, tucked in between moss-covered stones and grasses. The paths are lovingly managed with stepping stones over streams and small wooden bridges over bogland, allowing access even during the wettest periods.

The hand-painted wooden posts, with their yellow walker clearly visible, are works of art, turning me into a bit of a signpost junkie wanting to photograph these little yellow guides at each picturesque point. And there are many fixes to be had, especially as we started to climb the central ridge a little, the northern shores teasing us as they came in and out of view through the mist, and the reeded wrapping around Lough Akeen offering a golden glimmer below.

These beautiful walking signs symbolise a lot of what Sheeps Head is about. In the early 1990s a small group of four local farmers and landowners started to walk the land every Sunday, to work out the best possible paths across this spindly peninsula, which measures 19km long and 5km wide.

With land access still a controversial and sensitive issue here, this group got together and decided to let other people enjoy their headland and, slowly but surely, they talked the other farmers around too. The two pioneers were Tom Whitty, who tragically died in an accident just after it finally opened in 1996, and James OMahony who is still an inspiring presence on the Sheeps Head. Between them they chatted and cajoled, negotiated and nagged until the area was walkable.

Jimmy Tobin, for example, who still owns sections of the land around the lighthouse loop, keeps the place pristine and safe for walkers, with a bit of financial incentive thrown in too, of course. As I stood and photographed these signposts, I could feel that there was so much more to it than money. These guys had genuine pride in their homelands and have now created a model of sustainable land access for tourism which can be replicated throughout the country.

Although we kept heading towards the lighthouse tip on our walk, it never seemed to come into sight. Even as we came right down to the point of the peninsula, and I could see the waters of Bantry Bay stretching out to the north and the Atlantic beyond, still no lighthouse. Its bright red railings finally came into sight, the white of the building just peeping out at us down on a rocky promontory below, resting against the cliff like a massive sea bird which has claimed this perfect perch for years.

Climbing back up to the walking trail, we followed the north side of the loop this time, with a very different landscape opening up. Flanking Bantry Bay there is a wilder feel along this stretch, the paths enjoying the space of a wider valley, although still sheltered from the cold kick coming in off the Atlantic which had eroded the coastline into a handsome collection of gullied fingers of rock, stretching out from the tougher cliffs which were holding us up.

Within the bay itself, Whiddy Island lay just off Sheeps Head shore and Bere Island merged with the Bere Peninsula behind it in the distance. The valley started to go through a series of boggy dips and climbs again, all crammed with heathers, gorse and ferns in autumn and winter, and a haven for orchids in summer.

At Dangan we hit a junction where we could lengthen our loop into the Poets Way, but as daylight was already closing in we decided to head back for a last cupan tae, climbing up a narrow path which had us tip-toeing through temporary streams which had formed after a couple of rainy days  all the better as they acted as natural infusers for the spearmint and camomile underfoot.

I walked straight out of my lodgings at Drumcloc the next morning to take in the top of the headland, where a circular loop took me offroad again through fuschia-lined fields to an ancient well and shrine in a hollowed glen, where the statue of Our Lady jumped out so suddenly from behind a hedge I thought I had had a vision.

The next vision to behold was the more manicured grounds of the 18th-century Bantry House, also open to Sheeps Head walkers giving much more pleasant access down to Bantry harbour than on the main road. Here, Sheeps Head Way has you walking on water, leading me out to Whiddy Island, just 10 minutes away.

This must be one of the least visited islands in Ireland, most people associating it with an oil terminal which is tucked away on its southern most point. But dont judge a book, or confuse a storage terminal with a refinery, as Whiddy is still a walking haven, with ancient hedgerow-lined trails leading me to what felt like miles away from anything, never mind heavy-duty industry, which managed to keep out of sight for most of the time.

One of the trails led me up to an exquisite ancient graveyard dating from the 6th century, overlooking the bay in one direction and the islands Kilmore lakes in another. Another led me to a derelict battery, sunk into high ground by the British during Napoleonic times to keep an eye out for the French armada.

These are fine architectural creations which Tim OLeary, the skipper on the Whiddy Island Ferry and also the co-manager of the islands only pub  the Bank House  (crab claws and chips a must), is on a personal pilgrimage to restore, some day. I have no doubt that he will do too, because the local people on Sheeps Head Way like to show off and share their surroundings. Except on January 31st, that is, when they keep it all to themselves.

By not opening up their land every day of the year, the farmers retain their rightful claim to land ownership  which seems like a great deal to me. But then again, I get 364 days of walking access. They get just one days rest from the likes of me, and I hope they make the most of it and have one big hooley on the head.

And if they do, we walkers owe them more than a pint or two to say thanks for letting us party in paradise for the rest of the year.

The Irish Times - Wednesday, July 25, 2012

After 15 days and €5,800, the Stoy family go home to Switzerland. So was Ireland worth it?

Céad míle faults or fáilte? The Stoy family from Switzerland at Dublin Airport on their way home after a two-week holiday in Ireland.Photograph: Alan Betson

Two weeks ago, the Stoy family came to Ireland on holiday, and agreed to share their experiences of travelling from Dublin to Cork and Galway with The Irish Times. Here, they give their final verdict on the experience

BEA ‘My favourite place was Dublin’

I would describe Ireland to my friends at home as rainy and cold, so you couldn’t get tanned. Ireland has a nice, green landscape and you can see a lot of things, like old castles and churches.

I enjoyed staying in our cottage in Ahakista, Co Cork and the hotel in Galway. The cottage was good for relaxing and Agnes, the landlady, took good care of us.

A Swiss family in Ireland: 'You can't rely on the forecast'

The Stoy family outside their cottage in Ahakista, Co Cork

The Stoy family are visiting Ireland for two weeks. Here, they share their impressions of Cork

MARIA: ‘GOD IS ALIVE IN THAT CHURCH’

When we attended a church service in Bantry Christian Fellowship last Sunday I really felt at home. They worship the same Lord with the same songs that we sing in our church in Switzerland. I was very much encouraged by the teachings, that God loves you and does not forget you, no matter how you feel and what your circumstances are. You could feel that God is alive in that church.

GUIDO: ‘TO OUR SURPRISE, THE SHOPS CLOSED AT 5’

As Sunday was rainy and cold, we decided to stay at home after church: reading, eating and writing postcards. In the evening we went to a small local pub with nice live music by two young people (brother and sister), who played mainly international songs that are known all over the world.

We learnt that you can’t rely on the Irish weather forecast. Since it predicted rain for Monday we went to Cork instead of doing a walking tour, and we were surprised by nice, warm weather.

Cork is about the same size as Lucerne, where we come from, but has more little shops of all kinds. To our surprise, many of them closed at 5pm so unfortunately we did not have enough time to visit many of them. Today and tomorrow the weather forecast is not good, so we are planning to do small walking tours here on the Sheep’s Head and we will stay inside. Thursday and Friday we expect nice weather and we are planning to do the Ring of Kerry and maybe visit the Dingle peninsula to see the famous dolphin Fungie.

ANDREJ: ‘I’M GLAD I LIVE IN THE 21ST CENTURY’

In Cork we visited the cathedral and an old jail from the 19th century that showed how hard the life of the prisoners was, and how easily they got arrested. Very often it was their poverty that made them steal food, or they were punished for having a different political opinion. I’m glad I live in the 21st century.

ENYA: ‘WE WENT TO A PUB IN SOMEBODY’S HOUSE’

I’m really enjoying the time we are spending here in nature. It’s very quiet and we have a lot of time to just relax and enjoy our holiday.

Last night we went to a little pub close to our house. There was live music and I enjoyed it very much. It was in a basement of somebody’s house. It was very small but people came together there and talked, had a beer and enjoyed themselves. I liked the atmosphere.

BEA: ‘THE ONLY BAD THING IS, HALF OUR HOLIDAY IS OVER’

I love the cottage where we are staying. We are very thankful for this nice house, because we will spend a lot of time in it this week. The rooms are set up in an Irish style; it’s very cosy. The only bad thing is that already half of our holiday in Ireland is over.

Walking holidays to put West Cork on the map

By Jackie Keogh Saturday April 14th, 2012 Southern Star

WEST Cork already has two of the top five walking routes in the country, but a new walking study has identified ways of making it a place that international walking enthusiasts will want to visit.

Commissioned by West Cork Development Partnership, the West Cork Walking Study is a comprehensive document that shows that the area’s existing walking trails and support services are currently generating €14 million to the economy, but how they have the potential to increase that to €22 million by 2016. 

Speaking at The Eccles Hotel in Glengarriff on Wednesday April 4th, Mr Barry Woodfin of the engineering and environmental consultancy firm, URS, showed how upwards of 550 jobs could be supported if walking tourism is maximised. 

For starters, he said: ‘West Cork is already recognised as having a relatively strong walking product, especially the Beara Way and the Sheep’s Head Way, which are recognised by the National Trails Office as being two of the top five walking routes in the country.’ 

Having carried out a comprehensive assessment of the area, Mr Woodfin said: ‘West Cork Development Partnership has a clearer understanding of the “product” and how it can be improved through development initiatives and packaging.’ 

To raise the recognition factor, he recommended initially focusing on the Beara Way and the Sheep’s Head Way in order to promote the area and increase its chances of competing more effectively on a national and international level. 



To be derived 

He said: ‘The message has got to go out to every tourism provider in West Cork that there are significant economic, social and environmental benefits to be derived through walking tourism and work has to be done to establish a coherent vision and strategy to assist stakeholders in the decision-making process.’ 

In other words, he said, tourism interests would have to work together as a collective to identify where there are weaknesses (such as the need for additional accommodation and transport links to take tourists from one location to other, as well as improved local information, mapping and interpretation) because every walking enthusiast who visits West Cork would have a broad interest in other amenities, be they activity-based, cultural or historic. 

At present, it has been estimated that there are around 385 accommodation businesses providing nearly 6,000 bed spaces in the west coast area for holiday walkers. 

But, Mr Woodfin said one only has to look at other ‘named’ or ‘way-marked’ trails throughout the world to see how they bring massive benefits to their respective areas. Taking the South West Coast Path in the South West of England as an example, he said: ‘There, walking holiday makers contribute around £136 million to the economy each year.’ 

Meanwhile, the West Highland Way attracts around 75,000 walkers per annum, and generates a £3.5 million spend as well as supporting 200 local businesses. 

After the Inca Trail in Peru, probably the most famous walking route in the world is the Camino de Santiago, which attracts an average 100,000 walkers a year and generates a spend of around €30 million in that region of Northern Spain. 

On the Camino, like the Sheep’s Head or Beara Way, Mr Woodfin said the walkers undertake a portion of the trail each day and stay overnight in ‘walker-friendly’ guesthouses along the route. 

He said: ‘The West Cork Development Partnership is committed to providing additional financial resources to support further capital investment, as well as training and marketing, in order to maximise the potential of walking tourism in West Cork.’ 

Anyone who would like to see the study, and examine the ways that services can be improved, can obtain a free download from www.wcdp.ie, or contact West Cork Development Partnership at the West Cork Technology Park in Clonakilty. Phone: 023 8834035. 

In keeping with the new Failte Ireland promotion “Jump into Ireland”, Mr Woodfin said the message is that Ireland is a place that offers quality activities in an environment that is clean, unspoiled and incredibly pleasing to the eye. 



Access is key 

Of course, he said access to the countryside is key and, in this regard, the continuation of ‘the Walks Scheme,’ which provides around five hundred farmers and private landowners with payment for maintaining the walking routes through their land, will be encouraged. 

The scheme, which was established by the Department of Community, Rural and Gaeltacht Affairs, was initially rolled out in June 2009 with the first payments being made in the Beara area, but other locations were quick to follow. 

Throughout the country there are now 43 National Waymarked Trails, including 120 looped walks – including 21 in County Cork – but there are also other attractions for walking enthusiasts such as the country’s national parks and the areas designated by Coillte Outdoors and Sli na Slainte. 

Mr Woodfin said there is no escaping the fact that walking is now an important component of the tourism market and while there are 366,000 international visitors taking walking holidays each year, there are more than 800,000 visitors who ‘take in a walk’ while visiting Ireland. 

Nationally, he said this represents a value of €215 million to the Irish economy, not to mention the one-in-five domestic holiday makers who undertake some form of walking during their own ‘staycations.’ 

What makes West Cork well placed to promote itself as the country’s premier walking destination is its unparalleled peninsulas – all of which are areas of outstanding natural beauty – the ruggedness of its coastline and the unique appeal of its seven inhabited off-shore islands. 

Added to these natural advantages, Mr Woodfin said, is the character of West Cork’s towns and villages, and the fact that there is a broad community welcome extended to holidaymakers. 



Need co-operation 

But, he warned, all these key features will not be enough to drive walking tourism. He said: ‘New initiatives will need community support and the co-operation of key regional and national agencies. 

‘There will need to be co-ordination between the landowners and those participating in the Walks Scheme. Tourism providers will also need to be active in terms of providing support for walkers, such as the development of local walking guides.’ 

Long-term, he said, work would have to be done to bring the trails into line with the National Trails Office’s standard management criteria, and to arrive at a co-ordinated and consistent message concerning destinations and routes. 

In conclusion, Mr Woodfin said the report might appear to be focusing on the peninsulas and the islands as ‘a unique selling point,’ but he said ‘other areas can be involved and other interests – including other activity holidays – could also benefit in the long term.’